Day 3
January 31st, 2002
Miami, Florida
We loaded our bikes in the warm, muggy air of a Miami morning. We were not in too big a hurry, Key West is only a 150 miles or so south. We took a few pictures in Sal's driveway, and then proceeded out of the city with Sal in the lead.
We rode the back streets south out of the city. Northbound traffic was thick with commuters on their way in to work. People work in Miami? The city is so layed back, it does not seem possible.
We pass through numerous 15 mph school crossings. The kids wave at the loaded STs as we filter through. I see walkers, joggers, and cyclists by the hundreds. The city is loaded with fitness trails and bike paths. Miami must be one of the fittest cities in the country. The landscape pretty and green, the trees are leafed out. We ride by the lawns of half a mil homes, they are being tended by a army of lawn services, and gardeners.
We ride by a road survey crew. The guy holding the stick is standing on the line with his back to the traffic. And they give ME hazardous duty pay.
It was delightful ride out of the city to U.S. 1.
We arrive in Homestead, and decide to ride
down to Flamingo, through the Everglades. We follow the signs to the park. We take CR 9336 out of Florida City. The local road takes us pass fields of green crops, and busy migrant workers. I see huge water cannons irrigating crops, the sun making huge rainbows with the water streams. I wave at several workers as they walk out to the fields.
At the park entrance we pay our 5 bucks, and press on to Flamingo. The speed limit eases up to 55 mph. The most I have ever seen in a National Park. From the entrance to Flamingo?- 34 miles through the swamp. The sun is high in the sky and it beats down on us, I guess the temp to be in the mid 80s. Ah, South Florida in January. I wonder what the rest of the country is doing on this fine day? In Buffalo I bet they are bundled up on their way to work, in Seattle it is probably raining, in Maine and Vermont they brace themselves for another frosty day, and in Chicago the wind is howling through downtown. The Rockies are covered in snow, and skiers are making their way to the slopes. And here I am, basking in the sun, on the ride of a lifetime with my brother riders, its a tough life, but someone has to live it, might as well be me.
The road to Flamingo snakes it way through the swamp. Pass turnouts such as Snakebite, and Mahogany Hammock. I pictured the Everglades to be some thing akin to a Louisiana Bayou, but that is not so. The swamp is not as wet, or thick as I had thought it would be. The Cypress trees and shrubs scrape the road in a few places. We stop and take a few pictures.
Soon we land in Flamingo. The most southern point of the U.S. Mainland. Here you will find a marina, restaurant and a small store. We walk around the gift shop and then ride over to the store for a snack.
The store is located dockside. Yachts and power boats are moored up. I hear the water splashing against the hulls of boats, and the squeaking noise of marine ropes tied to piers. The warm breeze blows my bag of chips to the side of the table. I peeled the Roadcrafter off, and enjoy the atmosphere in my shorts and t shirt.
With our butts rested, we head back north the way we came. The ride back to Florida City is uneventful, but I did get a chance to see things I missed on the way in.
We stop for gas at a Texaco Mart in Florida City. Afterwards, take famous U.S. 1 South. U.S. 1 is busy. This is peak season for the Keys. We leave the Mainland over the first bridge, and now I feel like I am really on my way to Key West.
The going is slow, but that is ok, we are in no hurry.
The islands are alive with tourists and locals. North and South bound lanes ferry the masses to and fro. We pass RV parks by the hundreds. Each jacked full with tenants. So many snow country folks are down here, I begin to wonder who is running the country up there.
I note a guy could make a nice living working on RVs in this part of the country.
In Key Largo, Sal takes us to a local place for lunch that came highly recommended. Mrs. Mac's Kitchen. The small cafe is right out of a Humphrey Bogart movie. Screened doors and windows, tables out front under a wood cover. When we walk in we find ceiling fans spinning lazily, exposed wood walls and beams, the decor is old car plates from around the country. The food smells good, and we ask the waitress if we can eat out front on the tables, and she leads us outside.
She hands us menus and we ask what the daily special is-
"its in there on the board"
"so what is it?"
"I dunno, go in there and read it", she says jokingly.
I laughed backed at her, "well damn baby, if ya ain't gonna read it to us, there goes YOUR tip."
Such is the layed back life of Key Largo.
I order some very nicely done chicken fingers. I was tempted to get the shrimp but passed, cause I wanted seafood tonight in Key West. I finished the meal off with fantastic Key Lime Pie.
Lunch time in Key Largo. Mrs. Mac's Kitchen
Our waitress brings us plenty of ice tea, and Coke and we eat till we can't move. Awesome place. If you are ever in Key Largo, and what some good food, with a nice local flair, check it out.
We point the STs south on U.S. 1, and continue our ride to Key West. The highway connects a string of islands. We ride across the causeways, and land strips.
I see a man walking his dog in Islamorada, the canine's leash is wrapped around a speed limit sign, and the man is working hard to untangle things.
As we cross a bridge I look out to the Atlantic ocean to my left, and the Gulf to my right. The water a beautiful blue green. The sun reflecting so intensely off the water, I have to ride with my tinted shield down, even though I have sun glasses on.
Some rides stand out. Even certain segments within a ride stand apart from the others. The ride into Key West from Key Largo became such a ride for me. It was a beautiful day, my bike was running great, the scenery magazine like. I watched the bike ahead of me, and the bikes behind me. A few times I took the point, and felt like Stonewall Jackson leading the troops. I could see sail boats, and fishing vessels out in the water. Seagulls and other birds flew over, I even noticed a couple of dolphins off to my right jumping along, as if giving escort. I watched them submerge and then jump, doing their best to keep pace with the STs.
I now know why U.S. 1 through the Keys, can be found so often, as a backdrop to many commercials.
We pass through a school zone in Marathon and get a microwave bath by a foot mounted local with a speed gun. Two chase cars are nearby to run down anybody foolish enough to test the 15 mph speed limit.
We stop for pictures on a section of bridges known as the 7 Mile Bridge. The most famous part of U.S. 1.
Crossing the 7 mile bridge
Our plan for the day is to camp at Bahia Honda State Park. An appropriate place for 4 guys on STs. We pull in and get the sad news. Full. We continue on south, and find a campground a few miles later.
We pull into Lone Pine Campground and RV center, and negotiate a deal, that costs us 15 bucks each. Not bad. We idle through the jam packed RVs and find a quiet spot to put up our 4 tents. We camp right on a point overlooking the water. We can see U.S. 1 off in the distance. A great spot.
I set my tent up with my front door overlooking the water. I can hear the water splashing under the seawall, not 10 feet from my tent. Already, I can't wait to climb in it, and let the ocean lull me to sleep.
With my tent and bed set up, I called home and checked on things.