Guy
Boutin's Motorcycle Touring and Travel Pages
Adventures in Sport
Touring with the Honda ST 1100, 1300 and the BMW 1200RT
Exploring North America...One Road
at a Time
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Guy
Boutin's Motorcycle Touring and Travel Pages
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Day 13 My eyes gently opened, and I rolled over. Sunlight will soon break over the bluffs, and I felt content to just lay here and enjoy the morning. I checked my watch and it was 6:30am. I plan on making it to Wyoming today, camping somewhere in the Tetons. Not that far, so no need for a early start. I remained in my sleeping bag and listened to the endless sound of water just outside my tent flap. I really liked it here, and wished I could fast forward the calendar one year. If I could, I could take advantage of being retired, and spend an extra day at this gorgeous spot in the Sawtooths, just because I could. My time will be my own next year, and if I want to spend a day goofing off, I will. I could ride up to the Haven Cafe for breakfast, come back to the tent, do some reading and writing, then take a short ride exploring the area, after which I take a nap. But this year I have a job to get back to, and I need to return home with a few days buffer before going back to work. Thus, it was time to get moving. With the sun bathing the forest in golden light, I loaded and went back to highway 21. Two miles later I was in the Haven Cafe parking lot and on my way in for breakfast. The last time I ate breakfast was Lee Vining, but I was committed on this day. "Lynn" (she asked not to use her real name) stood behind the bar and said, "well, you did come back." "I said I would baby, now fix me a bacon sandwich plain." The cafe was empty, and we spoke at length. She said they were adding a pool room to the place, and moving the dining area to the front. My mother use to own a cafe very similar to the Haven. We bought it not long after we moved to Alabama. It was located near the stockyards, and her clientele were mostly cowboys and local truck drivers, with a few factory workers for diversity. I told Lyn of my first hand knowledge about cafes, and pool tables. "How ya gonna keep those boys from from bowing up on each other, you know how they can get, when they gotta stick in their hand." "yeah I know, but I'll have some help." "Dang sweetie your place brings back lots of memories, I bet you even let these boys sign their tickets all week, and when they get paid on Fridays, come and settle their bill." She flipped my bacon and smiled, "yeah, how'd ya know?" "My mother did the same, they'd pay their tab and start running another." She told me about all the motorcycles that cruise the road in front of her business. She said accidents were common, especially young guys on "crotch rockets", I blurted out, "I see you know the lingo." She sat my sandwich in front of me, "yeah but ya know something Guy, given the thousands of bikes, that come here, not that many crashes." "So business is good?" "Yes it is, I get a lot of business from Park Rangers and other Forest Service employees. Many are young and far from home, and they hang out here after work. One thing about government work, its a steady check." "I bet things are really busy during fire season." Oh yeah, firefighters from all over the country are here and are on per diem, its a madhouse preparing sandwiches for 100". "Well baby I gotta get going," as I rose up from the stool, pulling the Stich over my shoulders. "How much I owe ya?" She brushed her hair back and said, "3.50." I took out a 5 from my neck wallet and said, "keep it, and if I run into any other Long Riders I'll tell them to be sure to come by the Haven Cafe." "Thanks, and you be safe." It was almost 9am when I got back on the road. SR 21 keeps me busy as I lean the many turns. I don't recall a straight longer then 100 meters all the way to Stanley. It was a great ride on a custom painted morning. The weather was cool, and I had on the Phoenix gloves, with the vents closed. I came down out of the mountains toward Stanley and I am awed by the landscape. Mountain peaks stand in the distance, their white snow caps, looking like ice cream cones. The green pastures of the valley were home to grazing cattle and horses. The animals cared little for the surrounding beauty, all they wanted was something to eat. Those that call Stanley home are lucky. What a beautiful place. I crossed the Salmon River and went south on SR 75 toward Sun Valley. Rising out of the valley, the highway began to twist. Up toward the 10,000 foot peaks the ST takes me. A scenic lookout appeared and I parked for a better look at the valley below. It was beautiful. A middle aged couple asked for a picture and I helped out. Two north bound VFR riders came by, and a few minutes later I saw their specks moving across the valley floor far below. The Vista before me was spectacular. We are blessed to live in such a land.
The ride through Sun Valley was a trip highlight. Traffic thickened as I neared the Sun Valley Resort. Time for a butt break so I found a gas mart and pulled in. Confident the rich folks around here are not going to be without cell service, I got out my phone. Sure enough, I had a strong signal, so made a few phone calls. My son has a follow up interview with Wells Fargo today, so I left him a voice mail to call me when it was finished. I went in the store and bought a Mountain Dew. I had a nice break, but it was time to get back on the road. In Hailey, a slow moving truck cut in front of me, from the left lane. I hit the brakes and let him in. No problem, I was expecting something crazy from him. He never saw me. The afternoon sun was shining on me, as I rode into Arco. I was sleepy, and felt my head trying to nod off. I saw a church with a tree lined parking lot, so slipped in for a nap. I flopped down under a tree with thick grass under it, and took a 15 minute snooze. It was a great spot. When I got back on the road, I felt refreshed.
Down out of the Sawtooths, I went on US 20 east. I was riding along, when I noticed the sign for Craters of the Moon Landmark. I failed to notice in my pre ride planning that 20 took me past Craters, so I was surprised. I looked out over the vast wasteland of volcanic rocks as I motored along. They were black, and looked liked charcoal. I passed a 18 wheeler, and had to pass him again, after he went by me while I was taking a picture. Somedays I play leap frog way too much. A small overlook can be found near the park entrance. I pulled in to get better pictures. I was walking back to my bike, when a RV couple from Minnesota, said, "you look at home here in your moon suit." Very funny I thought. It was after lunch, but I wasn't hungry after eating breakfast in Lowman, so continued my ride. I wanted to enter Wyoming at Hoback Junction, so I needed to take US 20 into Idaho Falls, but I missed the turn, and rode US 26 to I-15. I pulled into a store near the interstate to check the map. Damn. How did I do that? I have to start paying better attention, but without my notes to remind me it's hard. The snafu cost me over 50 miles. I-17 went to Idaho Falls, and I left it for US 26. It was mid afternoon, I misjudged the distance from Lowman to the Tetons. This is shaping up to be a full day. Crossing into Wyoming the first town is Alpine, I saw a large Buffalo Bill sign. US 26 and 89 carried me past rock bluffs and mountains. Rain was off in the distance but I never ran into any. Why is Hoback Junction important? For fans of the TV series, "Then Came Bronson," 2 landmarks stand out. The Bixby Bridge, and the Jackson area of Wyoming. The first 4 stories from the show were filmed in the Jackson area. The closing shot of episode 2, "The Old Motorcycle Fiasco," is a aerial shot showing Bronson and a friend closing in on Hoback. When they reach the intersection the bikes split, one in each direction. Bronson went right following US 189 South, the path to the open road and his wanderlust ways. His friend choose left, US 89, returning him to his comfortable, but routine life in Jackson. Through this scene the director left the viewers with a subtle message. Life is a series of choices, all we are expected to do is make the best one we can in the present situation. I'll say this about Bronson, he always seemed to make his OWN choices. I watched the scene just prior to leaving home to refresh my memory and to compare images of past and present. Hoback Junction pretty much looks as it did in 1968. A few more stores and cars are around, but that's about it. In fact, the entire area is much busier then it was in 1968. I have 1 more Bronson image to take care off, and will get to it later today. Hoback Junction is a excellent metaphor for the choices we are called to make while living out lives. US 89 north took me to Jackson, where I found a big new Albertsons to shop for supper items. I bought 2 center cut pork chops, quick light charcoal, canned potatoes, 2 Cokes, and oatmeal cookies. I will be dining good tonight! Feeling good at being near my final destination, I went in Teton Park. Just like last year I was hit for a 15 dollar entrance fee. I rode to the visitor center and went in to check camp sites at Jenny Lake. Booked solid, I figured it would be. The ranger referred me to Colter Bay, so I took off north on 89. I was up that way last year with Dennis. The closing credits of each "Then Come Bronson", episode followed Bronson riding south on US 89, with the snow capped Teton Mountains on his right. It showed Bronson riding to the tune of "Long Lonesome Highway" as the credits rolled up. When I was 14 I dreamed of riding this road beside the mountains, and here I am. It was late afternoon, and the jagged peaks of the Tetons looked majestic. A very impressive mountain range. What a ride.
For the second time today, I missed a turn. At Moran Junction I ignored the turn off for 89 and went straight on US 26. I didn't realize it for 10 miles. I was tired now, and began looking for campgrounds. On US 26 I saw a empty federal campground. The place was unsecured and ragged looking so I kept moving. I checked my map and realized I missed the turn for Colter, but I wasn't too far from where I needed to be, so doubled back. Darkness is closing in, and I wanted to get off this lonely mountain road. I remembered passing a private RV park a few miles back, so I returned to it. I found the place and went in the office. A lady looked up at me. "how much to put my tent up?" "32 dollars" "no I'm serious, how much to put my tent up?' "THIRTY TWO DOLLARS" "man, y'all lost y'alls minds!" "its a short season, we have to make it when we can" "but all at once? No thanks, I'm going to the park and sleep for free" I layed rubber getting out of that place. I made it back to Moran Junction, corrected my mistake, and a few miles later I was in Colter Bay. The sun was gone when I found my way to the campground gate. The rangers went with the sun, and their sign said they returned at 8am. Same song, different verse, load up and leave before 8, and earn a free night. I turned the ST off having covered 560 miles. The campground was jammed full of RVs. Not much privacy. I found the best site I could, and scampered to get my tent up and to start cooking, I was hungry having skipped lunch. I lit my charcoal while I set the tent up and soon my chops were sizzling. An RV jockey stepped over and said- "man, you know how to travel" "yeah I do pretty good, nothing like topping off a great ride with some camp food" It was another great meal, even though I felt like I was in one of those south Florida RV parks full of snowbirds, where they park the monsters so close to each other its hard to walk between them. After supper I went over to the showers and cleaned up. A lady attendant scolded me for trying to leave the parking lot out a 1 way. She hollered out, "HEY! You can't do that way, its a ONE WAY!!" I felt much better after my shower and when I returned to the tent site I worked on my journal. I called my son and he reported the interview went well. He said he has 3rd interview Thursday. "dang Chris I'd say you have a good chance at gettin hired. They don't call ya back for a 3rd time unless they are serious about hiring ya." I got in my tent and plugged in the FM adapter to my cell phone. I scanned the channels and found a soft rock station. Tomorrow, I begin the ride out of the mountains. I listened to music for 30 minutes and went to sleep. Next: Devil's Tower, Across the Big Horn Mountains, and into South Dakota. Footnote: Locating the scenes from the Bronson episodes took a days research. Through the web I was able to find Hoback Junction. From the Bronson web site I located a individual who was so moved by the 4 episodes filmed in Jackson, that he moved there. When I asked him where the the intersection was he said "Hoback Junction" without hesitation. He also gave the location of the closing credit ride. However, I would have instantly recognized it the minute my tire rolled on US 89.
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