Guy Boutin's Motorcycle Touring and Travel Pages

A
dventures in Sport Touring with the Honda ST 1100, 1300 and the BMW 1200RT

Exploring North America...One Road at a Time


Home Up

 

 

Day 6 
June 7, 2001
Near Evanston, Wyoming


The sun was up and shining bright as I got back to I-80.  I was still in a bad mood, from the 18 dollar shellacking I took to put my TENT up in the campground. 

I was westbound in a intense white sunlight.  My shadow was back, thanks to the eastern sun. 

A half full gas tank, caused me to take a early break.  I exited at Emory and found a Chevron Food Mart.  I topped off the ST and went inside.  A man came in and wanted to know, if the hot dogs were ready.  The attendant said, "the girl that takes care of that doesn't come in till 10".  I wanted to warn the man to stay away from convenience store hot dogs, remembering my experience from North Dakota. 

I went back outside and stared at the dirty, bug splattered ST.  It had never been this dirty before.  It was then I took a closer look at the front tire.  The rubber was cracking and breaking down, cupping was severe.  I was still showing tread, but it would have to be replaced before testing the Nevada desert. 

I called Honda Riders and asked for all the dealers in the Salt Lake City area.  They quickly returned with 3 phone numbers.  My third phone call located a Dunlop 205, correct size, at Plaza Cycle, just outside the city.  I secured directions and got underway. 

I quickly botched the directions and got lost in Salt Lake City.  I called the dealer back and got straightened out.  I hate being in a strange city, looking for something. 

I finally found the dealer and was well taken care of.  They changed my tire and had me back on the road in a hour. Total cost 126 bucks.  When I returned home, I wrote Honda, commending this dealer for their prompt service, and having vital ST parts on hand.  Many dealers do not carry the odd size tires a ST calls for, and that upsets me. 

As I was saddling back up a salesman asked, "So where ya going to today?"  "Reno."  "But that's 500 miles!".  "Then I better get started". 

Before I left the parking lot, I could tell the difference.  The front end no longer had a mind of its own.  Now this is how a ST is suppose to handle.  I had been compensating for the tire the last few thousand miles. 

I gassed up before leaving SLC, determined not stop anymore for 200 miles.  I needed to make up for the lost time. 

I continued on I-80 past The Great Salt Lake.  It smelled like the beach. 

It is hot and I have the Roadcrafter fully vented out.  As long as I am moving it is ok.  I guess the temp to be 100 degrees. 

I cranked the ST up to 115 as I crossed the Salt Flats. Line of site was unlimited, and there was no place for a LEO to hide.  A BMW 5 series sedan fell in behind me. 

Nevada.  What else is there to say?  Long, hot and boring, and I was just beginning the trek across the state.  I-80 across Nevada is mind numbing. 

I kept my promise, and rode 190 miles non stop. 

I exited at Elko for gas, and a well deserved break.  As I gassed up the ST, 2 Harley riders came in to do the same. They were displaying Pennsylvania plates.  They rode Soft tails all the way from Pa?  I went over to speak with them. They were young college guys, on a road trip they had been planning since they were kids.  They were on their way back east, and had spent the previous night in Tahoe. We sipped cold Mountain Dew in the shade and talked about bikes and road trips, and the attractive attendant inside. 

Reluctantly, we had to part ways.  Leaving the parking lot, bound different directions, I gave them a farewell salute. They returned the gesture.  So, Brian, Spence, I hope y'all had a safe trip back to Pa, and I hope to see y'all out there again someday.  Ride safe. 

Westbound on I-80 I see a sign that tells me Reno is 300 miles away.  Damn.  Nevada is a big state. 

Armed with the new front tire, I kept the ST in the 90 mph range.  I fall in a convoy of fast moving cages and settle in. 

It is late afternoon now and I resign myself to the fact I am not going to make Reno before nightfall.  I will get as far west as I can. 

The sun is in my face now, and I kept dropping my head to keep my eyes out of the glare. 

The landscape is a barren moonscape.  Everyone is tearing along at 90 trying to get out of Nevada. 

A sign reads "Truck Stop Next Exit".  I remove myself from the high speed conduit and take the exit, looking for something cold to drink.  When I get to the bottom of the exit the only thing I see is a shanty.  The sign is faded, and the place looks to have been shut down for years.  I get back on I-80 thinking they need to update the signs around here.  I took this time to treat my chapped and wind sore lips.  They had been sore since South Dakota.  I am not use to the dry climate, and my lips quickly dried out and cracked from the wind and dry air. 

 
  The sign read, "Friendliest Truck Stop in the West", but
   that was long ago.



I do find a active rest area east of Winnemucca.  I drink a lot of cold water and lounge on the tables.  I also got my atlas out and located a state park with camping facilities west of Winnemucca.  It looked to be a good ending point. 

I ride non stop into Winnemucca, and look for a place to eat supper. 

I found my old stand by-McDonalds so went in and got the number 5- Chicken Nuggets. 

A birthday party was in progress, and young kids were running rampant. 

A Native American gentleman was eating supper and reading the paper a few tables away.  He was neatly dressed in western jeans and hat.  He got up to refill his drink, and a youngster knocked his cup to the ground.  He went back to reading the paper, but when things failed to quiet down, he gave up and left. 

I found a pay phone outside and called home, giving the latest status report. 

I went over to the Texaco station and topped the ST off, then got back on the road. 

For the last 100 miles of the day I slowed down.  I watched the sun slip below the desert, and the night creep up around me.  The air cooled off quickly and riding was fun again. 

Before I knew it, the exit sign for Rye Patch Rec Area came into view.  I exited and stopped at a nearby store for junk food for later at the campground. 

I put my 5 bucks camping fee in the box and ride in to look for a camp site.  The rec area was home to the only lake or river for a hundred miles.  The only green I could see, was clumped around this little oasis. 

I was surprised to see a number of campers in the park.  I found a nice spot below a hill, and set up camp in the dark. 

I rode 627 miles for the day. 

With my tent up and bed ready, I strolled over and took a shower.  The hot water handle was out of service.  It will be a cold shower.  The desert night was cool, and the cold water was hard to deal with, especially washing my hair. 

I made it back to my tent, and studied my atlas while drinking grape juice by my Ray o Vac battery lantern. 

A couple in the next site was driving a pick up truck with a shell on the rear.  They had pulled their air mattress out on the ground, and were going to sleep under the stars. Assuming they had good information, I did not worry about rain. 

At 1130pm I crawled in my tent, and zipped up.

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