Day 1
June 2, 2001
Prattville Alabama
I was so excited about my first coast to coast trip in 25
years I had trouble sleeping. I was planning to depart at 6am, but I was
up at 4.
I packed and loaded the bike the night before so there was not
much to do. I had checked and rechecked all my equipment. I was
ready to go.
I kissed my wife good bye and rolled out of the garage at
4:30am. I hate long good byes so kept it short.
A thousand thoughts went through my head as I made my way out
of my quiet neighborhood. What adventures lie ahead? Will I miss
home? What if I have a breakdown? Do I have enough money to cover this
trip? And on and on it went.
You will find US 31 North a few blocks from my
home. I took it, and 5 miles later, I was merging onto I-65 North.
It was cool, but not enough to zip up the Roadcrafter.
I am comforted by I-65 because I ride it so much. I am
bound for Birmingham, and then on to Nashville. I don't plan on stopping
till I get to the north side of Birmingham, 100 miles away. Riding alone
in the dark, I can "hear" the road talk to me. "Settle down
Guy, things will be fine, here let me take you to places you have never
seen." That is what the familiarity of I-65 does for me.
I keep my speed down in the dark. Traffic is light on
this Saturday morning. I have 3 major cities to contend with on this
day. Birmingham, Nashville, and St. Louis. I know I am in for a long
ride on boring interstates. I planned it that way. The worst part of
any long trip is the first day. It takes a day to clear the familiar- the
roads, towns, and scenery you have seen a hundred times. As I rode north
on I-65, I was conscious of that fact. I only wanted to put this first day
in the book.
Twenty-five miles south of Birmingham the sky started to
lighten, and the surrounding countryside came to life. The sunrise in the east
surrounding me in soft morning light. The normally busy south Birmingham
suburbs are quiet on this Saturday morning.
I stayed on 65 north through the city, as the dawn light
brightened the road, I was able to increase my cruising speed to 75.
I made my first stop in Gardendale at a freshly opened food
mart, the light of the morning sun had just finished illuminating the
landscape. I bought a Mountain Dew, and snacked on a Hostess
cupcake. I scanned the headlines of the Birmingham News while still in the
rack.
I got back on the ST and returned to I-65, thinking the first
100 miles went by quickly. The weather looks cloudy to the north, and I
noticed the air was distinctly cooler.
I am not as familiar with I-65 north of Birmingham as the
southern portion, when I am in North Alabama, I stay on the back roads.
I rode by the Hartselle exit, and thought back to a cold
spring night in 1998, when my son had his greatest night as a high school player
in a double header against the local team. We left Central Alabama that
Saturday morning, arriving in Hartselle to find a 10 degree temp
difference. Many of us had to zip to Wal-Mart and buy sweatshirts.
The morning was cool and cloudy. Unseasonably cool for a
June day in Alabama.
Riding north I mentally reviewed the planned route for
today. I- 65 north to Nashville, then 24 to Illinois. From there it
was onto St Louis. I wanted to make northern Missouri before calling it a
day.
I entered Tennessee and began looking for gas. I left
home with the ST not quite full, resulting in a early gas stop. Riding
into Tennessee, it became downright chilly. Weather-guessers had predicted
possible rain in portions of Tenn. and Ill., and the skies looked like they were
going to be right.
I filled the ST at a Exxon station and took a break. I
saw 2 SUVs pull in for gas, both displayed Michigan plates. The families
exited the vehicles and began laughing and talking, the offspring running ahead,
and barging in the store. I got back out to the ST and eavesdropped on the
conversation of the 2 fathers pumping gas. The families where neighbors
and good friends, taking a joint vacation to Panama City, Florida. They
were just underway after spending the night in Nashville. Not exactly my
way to travel, too many people to please.
I also took this time to zip up the Roadcrafter and switch to
warmer gloves.
Near Spring Hill it began to sprinkle. The fine droplets
caused me to flip down the shield on the Beiffe.
I exited to check my atlas, and to confirm my route through
Nashville. Nothing fancy. Just go in the city and begin looking the St.
Louis signs.
The drizzle picked up as I entered the city. Nothing
like getting wet on the first day out. I hoped it was not some kind of
omen of things ahead. (it would rain on just one other day). Things went
as predicted and I made it through Nashville with out a hitch. No
construction delays, wrecks, or missed exits.
I took I-24 out of Nashville and headed for Kentucky.
The rain continued off and on all the way through Kentucky.
I rode along making mental notes of time and miles covered, to
help on my return trip 2 weeks later, over the same highways. Three hours
from Nashville, 4 hours home from Hopkinsvile etc, I logged notes inmy brain for
future reference.
The wind picked up considerably, and would occasionally blast
me straight up in the saddle. The wind would be a factor the rest of the day.
I noticed hundreds of cars with Florida plates on I-24.
Was there a hurricane bearing down? I knew better, but it reminded me of a
hurricane exodus. I saw vans with those cargo things on top, 2 seater
sports cars, SUVs and U-haul trailers. Anything that would move appeared
to be fleeing Florida. They were strewn out all over I-24 heading
northwest. How does a guy buy a van to haul all his stuff and STILL have
to add a cargo carry to the top?
I took a break at the Hopson exit. I skipped the banana
I packed, and bought something good instead. M&Ms and a Coke. I
munched down on them leaning against the outside front wall. The weather
was still cloudy but looked sunny and warmer where I was headed.
I arrived in Paducah at lunch time and dropped off the
interstate for lunch. McDonalds. Funny on a gas and go day like
this, on interstates, fast food is the meal of choice. It fits my mood.
I picked up my chicken nuggets and took my tray to a booth
near the window, where I could keep a eye on the ST. I noticed a elderly
man sitting nearby peppering his French Fries so much they looked as if they
were rubbed in the dirt. How he ate them, I still don't know.
As I ate lunch I tried to figure Kentucky out. Abe
Lincoln spent time here and Jeff Davis was born here. Technically they
were considered a "border state", but I think the people of Kentucky
think of themselves as southern. How do I know? Because iced tea is
readily available, as evidenced by the iced tea dispenser in the McDonalds drink
bar.
Leaving the parking lot, I spotted 3 vehicles with Florida
tags. What is going on down there??. Does the entire state go on
vacation at once? Do the powers that be send out crusaders to exact
vengeance on the northern states for sending "snowbirds" to them in
winter?
A few miles after lunch, I crossed the Mason-Dixon Line at the
Ohio River and into Illinois. A trip west for me has 4 distinct
milestones. The first is the Mason-Dixon Line, 2nd crossing the
Mississippi River, 3rd-up and over the Continental Divide, and 4th landing on
the Pacific Coast.
I think to myself how crossing a river can so vividly mark one
area of the country from another. Just being born on the north side of the
river causes a guy to say "you guys" instead of
"y'all". Fried chicken and biscuits have to be sought out, and
last but not least, the word "pop" for Coke. When first asked
what kind of "pop" I wanted, I was lost.
I rode non stop north on I-24 to I-57.
Near Mt Vernon I veered west onto I-64 to begin the trip
California, but first I had to go to Minnesota and North Dakota. Why?
Because they were only 2 states not colored in, and I was going to ride 2000
miles out of the way to be able to do that.
I kept my speed down in the speed challenged State of
Illinois. Posted limit is 65, and I saw 2 cages pulled over being summed
to make a contribution to the local economy.
The sun broke out and I took a break just east of St Louis. I
also got out the atlas again to plot the course through St Louis. Not
having any advanced recon, the best way looked to be the most direct. I-70
through the city. It was Saturday, and traffic should be bearable.
The ride through St Louis proved to be a mistake. Miles
of construction that is going to take years to finish. Fast moving traffic
through those construction areas, equals total concentration at all times.
I rode with my eyes fixed far ahead. Lane shifts at the last minute at 85
mph. It was a zoo. I did get to see The Arch as I rode past. I
landed on the west side of THE RIVER and I was in the "west". TV
stations with K and not W in the call letters.
Feeling relieved, I took a break west of St Louis in a local
"diner". I fell in the booth and the waitress said-
'You look tired"
"baby I am, but I managed to escape with my life"
"from where may I ask?"
"St Louis interstate system"
'here lemme get ya something special"
Something special was lemon pie and a "pop".
I rode west on I-70 through endless urban sprawl looking for
SR 19. I-70 across Missouri is ugly, and I can't wait to escape it, and
have a nice ride to Mark Twain State Park.
SR 19 is a pleasant relief after 650 miles of
interstate. It is quiet and rural, and it reminds me why I travel by bike.
I took SR 19 to SR 154. The quiet town of Perry is
located just a few miles from the park. I pulled in a small, but busy
grocery store and bought a NY strip for supper with a side dish of canned white
potatoes. I also picked up a can opener, and butane stick to light my
stove.
I arrived in the campground in the late afternoon. The
campground already had a number of tenants in place. Mark Twain is a nice
park with good facilities.
I found the host and paid my 7 bucks. Nice people.
I set up my Eureka 2 man tent in five minutes. While I
set up my tent I opened my therm a rest pad, and let it inflate. I get my
sleeping bag in place, and get out my pillows. I bring my pillows from
home, they take up a lot of room but I HAVE to have them for a good night sleep.
With tent and bed in place I walked over to a vending machine
and bought a Coke.
I broke out my Coleman stove and cooked up my NY strip.
It was on the thick side so cooked it up slow. Medium well. I carry
A1, ketchup, and salt in fast food prepackages. I liberated them from
restaurants back home. I Warmed up my potatoes and dined quite well.
After supper I walked a short distance, to a clean and well
maintained bath house and showered. I also used my one hour phone
card to check in at home.
I spent the evening sitting on my table working on my journal
by Ray O Vac Lantern light. A young family man stopped by for a
conversation before bedtime.
I felt content. The first day was out of the way.
My tent and bed were all ready for me to climb in. I ate steak, and had a
hot shower. Total cost for food , and a bed-11 bucks. Plus, I am
sleeping in a bed that has been home to only ME, and not a bed where 10,000
people have slept prior. Noway you convince me a motel room is
cleaner then MY tent.
Total miles for the day 733.
I was tired and got in bed at 10pm. The night was
pleasantly cool, and my therm a rest, sleeping bag, and pillow from home felt
really good. I fell asleep quickly but a barking dog tied to a RV across
the road w