Guy
Boutin's Motorcycle Touring and Travel Pages
Adventures in Sport
Touring with the Honda ST 1100, 1300 and the BMW 1200RT
Exploring North America...One Road
at a Time
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Guy
Boutin's Motorcycle Touring and Travel Pages
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Day 10 I was the last one up this morning. Sal and Ron were in the lodge eating breakfast when I wandered in. They were just finishing when I walked over to the table. "y'all ready to ride today?" "Oh yeah, can't wait," Sal responds. We were due to leave out at 9 so I had to move back to the tent and square my things away. The morning was cloudy and cool, but the Weather Channel is predicting sun by this afternoon. After gearing up I went back to the lodge. I really like the 2 piece Roadcrafter. I can walk in the pants only and carry my coat. I found a table to lay my stuff out on, and a few minutes later Andray was on the scene. Andray seemed to have the most knowledge, so we elected him road captain. We gathered around the front making last minute checks when Joe Sparrow, a GL 1800 rider from St. Louis, asked to join us. We were a little reluctant at first, because all of us knows what happens when you mix different type bikes on the kind of roads we were going to be on. I checked out Joe's Wing- it was showing 120,000 plus miles, a 2001 model. A lot of miles in 2.5 years, it was obvious he has a good resume, and knows what he's doing. "OK you're in." Although not a sport tourer, the 1800 is a very accomplished bike in the curves. Like the 1300 it has a all aluminum one piece frame. The same team designed the frame for both bikes, copied from Honda's sport bike efforts. With Andray's red 1100 in the lead, we left the Iron Horse. It was a proud moment. Andray Hubble, the downed rider from last year, was BACK, and leading us on one of the all time great rides. He had spent a year in rehab, working his leg to rebuild his broken femur. I'm sure thoughts of this day motivated him during the long, boring hours of rehab. All through last winter, spring and most of the summer, he was aiming for this moment. When he wasn't working out he was securing his next ST and repairing his damaged bike, and now he was back in the Blue Ridge leading us through gorgeous fall color on our way to the Skyway. Talk about poetic justice, it was ONLY right he take us out. Damn, I felt like I was following Joe Montana out of the tunnel for the Super Bowl.
I kept the same ensemble of the last few days. Leather gloves, sweatshirt under the Roadcrafter. A little cool in the mornings, but the afternoon warms up nicely. We left 28 for the Cherohala Skyway. Located just a few miles from the Iron Horse. I've written about the Skyway before, so I really don't have much to add. The Skyway has excellent vistas of the mountains, and very good elevation. But the Skyway is a very dangerous road, because of its steeped, and various changing radius curves. Several riders have been killed on it the last few years, and not all were squids. Several cruiser guys and Gold Wing riders can be counted in the mix. I think 2 things cause the Skyway to be so dangerous. The first caveat is the Skyway's lack of background in many of the curves. This is especially true above the tree line, which the road is much of the time. With no contrast of close trees or embankments, and so much open sky nearby, your eyes lose a little perception, and in the changing radius curves the Skyway is famous for, it can cause trouble. There are times you pick a line in the curve assuming the road banks, when it fact it doesn't, and if you are too fast you can't adjust and off the you go into a guardrail. The other factor is the Blue Ridge Parkway. Most riders ride the Parkway for many miles, then come to the Skyway. The Skyway looks and feels just like it. The road surface and scenery are similar. Especially around the Looking Glass Rock area of the Parkway. The Parkways curve are predictable, all the same radius, all the same length, pretty much the same entrance and exit points. It fosters a nice rhythm. I've ridden behind my friends for many miles on the Parkway, and seldom do I see a brake light come on. All of them are experienced, seasoned riders, many were on sport bikes in their younger days, and can handle the Parkway at speeds twice over the speed limit. The BRP was built in the 30s. Cars back then were very different. Drum brakes, stiff suspensions, quirky transmissions. The road was built to make it as easy as possible on such equipment. No such considerations were made on the Skyway. Thus, riders jump on the Skyway thinking it will be a rehash of Parkway riding, drifting the curves in Parkway like cadence, then suddenly find themselves in a curve at 60 mph bending sharper and sharper. Not pretty. On this morning I had all that to think about, and ever thickening fog, as we soared toward the peaks. We stopped at a scenic overlook for a few pics where 2 BMW riders advised it was nasty at the top. Very foggy and cold.
Sure enough, a few miles from the top the fog rolled in, and visibility went to nil. It was the thickest fog I'd ever been in. I could not see the bikes ahead. I followed the white line on the shoulder at 15 mph. I flicked the 13's 4 way flashers on for safety and to make it easier for Joe to see me. A few minutes later Andray turned his on and it made all the difference. I could see HIM, but not the 2 bikes I knew were between us. It grew very cold as we crawled over the peaks of the Unicoi Range. Elevation was somewhere in the 6.000 ft range. We rode the fog out for 10 miles or so, and as we came down in elevation the temps warmed and the fog lifted. Soon we were back leaning the curves at a normal pace. A very challenging morning on the Skyway. The kind of ride that makes you feel good when you conquer it. We were all smiles about our accomplishment as we zipped into Tellico Plains. We were also happy to see the sun break out. Andray led us to a gas mart in Tellico Plains and we topped off the tanks. The Telliha Cafe was right across the street and was doing a brisk business with the biker crowd. At least 20 bikes were in the parking lot (mostly cruisers) so we added our 5 Hondas to the crowd. We were led to a big booth in the back where I had a hamburger and once again skipped the fries. Our waitress was a pleasant young lady, that shall we say, was on the friendly side. Our conversation centered around riding and motorcycles as you might expect. She said she once rode "on the back" of a Harley to Florida. I replied pointing, "look here, both these boys are from Florida." That made her slide her eyes around. Sal and Ron used this time to invite me back down to south Florida in January for another trip to the Keys. Of course I said yes. Sal and I were paying our tabs when I asked our waitress, "hey baby, I need to ask ya something after I pay my bill, come find us." "K gimme just a minute to set this down." She came back to where Sal and I were standing and I asked. " Look here, are those REAL on that waitress goin yonder?" She smiled and said, " Oh yeah, and she's proud of em" "Yeah I can tell." She walked with her chest stuck out like Foghorn Leghorn. I decided it was time to leave before someone got in trouble. We left Tellico on SR 39, hooking up with CR 315 and CR 30. Not sure, but I think Uncle Phil led us on these roads on TTT. It was good to get to ride them again. The roads were very twisty as the highway rose and fell among the hills. Andray took us by quiet pastures and peaceful farmland. I did a quick dial up of the 1300s rear suspension before leaving the cafe and the bike was steadfast in lines. I spent most of the time in the number 4 spot, but on occasion I would move to the number 2. We were not riding aggressively, and well within limits. I don't even recall going over the speed limit. I guess the best measuring stick for the nice leisure ride we had was Joe had no trouble keeping up with us on his Gold Wing. It felt odd to be riding these roads without Uncle Phil and PeterM, I was missing those jokers. I have too much going on in my life with my running and biking, so don't have time for a broken femur and kept that thought in mind my entire ride in the hills. As usual I did a poor job with my notes on this day. I spent my time off the bike socializing and not writing. The sun felt good, but the temps still hung in the low 60s. We usually spend our time further north on Blue Ridge trips, so it was good to sample these roads again. Waynesville is 60 miles from this area, and riding here and back from Crusso takes a full day. Our group rode through a landscape of gumdrop hills, rolling roads, neat farms. The sky was full of those white puffy clouds you always see in paintings, and the towns were friendly with busy people. Long white fences sometimes lined the roadway, forming the boundary line between the farms. Leaf color depended on the area, at times the trees were painted in yellows and reds, and in other areas the trees were still green. A lot depends how much sunlight they receive with temperature and moisture factors added in. CR 30 was great riding and we followed it to US 64/74 and took a break in Murphy. In another case of small world, Sal bumped into somebody he knew from Miami. A quick ride into Andrews followed, and we took Junaluska Road to Wayah. I let the pack go and stopped to take a few snapshots. The trees along the route were extra colorful and I wanted to capture the moment. It took me a while to get the shot I wanted, and the others grew concerned and came back looking for me. I met them on my catch up. I stopped and waited for them to turn around.
I recall riding along observing the damage from the hurricane rains. Wayah Road was caked in dried mud, and washed out in many places. I noticed the water in these hills didn't need a creek. It just washed downhill in tidal waves. I could see the evidence of impromptu rivers as it pushed downhill. Large trees were swept over, all of them facing downhill. The water just flowed over 30 and went on like nothing happened, straight downhill, following the path of least resistance. It was complex riding. We stopped at the same store as last year on Wayah Road. "Thanks for comin back and checkin on me." "No problem, we ain't leavin anybody this year." It was a gorgeous afternoon and it was time to head back to the campground. Motorcycles were everywhere enjoying probably the last good weekend before the cold and holidays shut so many down. We took SR 28 back into Franklin, a place Andray grew to know well. It was his first stop on the way to healing back up. Say what you want to about American health care, but its the finest in the world. Andray said he was swarmed by a team of doctors and nurses and given around the clock care, and even in small towns such as Franklin, hospitals have a lot of modern equipment. When the government gets involved you get rationing and waiting lists. SR 28 took us out of Franklin and it hit me this was my last ride of the trip. Tomorrow I'll be on the way home, and the riding season will be over. Yes, I can still ride almost everyday, but for the most part I'll be close to home. I don't really count a ride to Key West as a long trip.
The pace picked up a little on this blissful sheet of road on the way back to the campground. Joe moved up to the number 2 spot on his 1800. I followed him through the curves watching him pick his line and heeling the Wing over. He did very well, scraping floorboards and all. The late afternoon sun was in our face sometimes, adding another degree of difficulty to the road.
I saw the yellow flashers go on, signaling we were at the campground and the fun was over. According to RonE we covered 227 miles today. A great ride. We parked the STs under the cover, and went inside the lodge to tell war stories. Bikes of all kinds were beginning to trickle in with riders displaying big grins. Supper menu for the night was rib eyes on the grill. We eagerly signed up. I was going to get my traditional end of season steak. Andray bid us farewell, his wife was waiting for him in Robbinsville. I went back to my tent to check on my stuff then came back inside. The rib eyes were excellent. Joe joined us and told stories of his many miles. Joe and I have covered just about the same amount the last 2.5 years, but I think his totals are more impressive because there are many days in St Louis he is unable to ride. He is a definite Long Rider.
It was a great meal with great company. A fitting tribute to end the riding season. After supper I went to the showers then came back to jot notes for the ride home in the morning. Sal said he was laying over one more day. He wanted to ride alone stopping to take pictures and just enjoy the mountains. A feeling I can relate to. Ron's phone was still the only unit with a signal, so I borrowed it to call Debbie. "yeah, I'll be home by mid afternoon". "well dang, I gotta show to do tomorrow and won't be home to about 6." "just get back as soon as ya can baby, we'll eat out to celebrate." I sent Chris a text message to come to Prattville and eat out with us Sunday night. I was a little cool last night so rented (best 3 bucks I ever spent) a sleeping bag from the Iron Horse to throw over mine. Noway I get inside a rental bag. Sal thought it was a good idea and followed suit. We stayed up late. I didn't want to let the evening go, but knew I had to. We all said good night and went back to our tents about 11:30pm The night was cold again, but I was toasty warm in my double sleeping bag. I listened to some music and drifted off to sleep quickly. Something about sleeping out on a cold night in a good sleeping bag I bet. Looking forward to getting home tomorrow. Back to Debbie, my Trek, and all my other toys. Also looking forward to the beach. Next: The annual ride home from the Blue Ridge and sunny and hot Alabama! Many thanks to Andray Hubble who helped recall the events of the day.
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