Day 2
October 15th, 2002
Lake Wappapello State Park
Near Poplar Bluff, Missouri
My watch sounded off at 6am, but it had no
luck getting me going. It was COLD outside. My face tingled in the
brisk air, and I tucked it down into my sleeping bag to keep my ears warm.
Noway can I crawl out of this warm sleeping bag, I said to myself. The sun
was not up, and I thought about what to do. I just wasn't up to rising,
loading, and riding out on 30 degree morning.
I decided to sleep in, and let the sun warms
things up a bit. I knew a early start would mean at least 2 hours of
riding in the coldest part of the morning. Why do it when you don't HAVE
to? I also knew it would mean I probably wouldn't make southern Iowa
today. I will make it up later, for now I'm staying in this warm sleeping
bag.
I finally poked out of the tent a few minutes
before 8. The sun was in the trees, and it was warmer then 2 hours
prior. A good decesion to delay.
I had just finished packing my gear, when the
couple from the tent near the lake, came by walking their dog. They told
me they were from Montana, and rode a RT, but left it at home for this trip
because it was too cold. So what the hell is boy from Alabama doing out
here? If its too cold for them, then I damn sure ain't gotta chance.
Fearful of what lies ahead of me, I left the
park at 8:30am. Way too late to do any serious mileage today.
It was cool, and I had on long wool socks,
medium gloves, and 2 sweatshirts under the Roadcrafter. I still have the
insulate vest and sweat pants to go to if it gets any colder.
I take SR 49 east out of the park, the sun is
bright and the sky blue. My fuel light came on just outside Poplar Bluff
yesterday, so I will stop for gas at the first oppurtunity.
SR 172 rolls through the trees of Mark Twain
Natioinal Forest. It dips and climbs, and proves to be a nice ride.
The pavement is Tennessee smooth, and the ST follows the curves with little
effort on my part.
SR 172, on the western edge of the Ozarks. Great Riding
I was on the lookout for deer but failed to
see any.
I stopped for gas at a crossroads store
located at route A and SR 49. The place did not have a pay at the pump
feature and for the first time this trip I had to go in a pay cash. The
clerk commented-
"a little chilly on that thing today
ain't it?"
"yeah, but its gettin warmer by the
mile"
With my gas tank full, I got back on route A,
and continued leaning. The routes along this area reminded me of
East Tennessee. Lots of curves, and no traffic. It was fun. I
never thought I would get to lean so much in Missouri.
In Elsinore, I went over to US 60 west.
A busy highway that cuts across Missouri with ruthless efficency. I was
glad to leave it for SR 17 north, 50 miles later.
I was now heading north away from green trees
and underbrush, toward the plains of Northern Missouri and Iowa. This area
of the state contrasts sharply with most peoples images of what Missouri should
look like.
SR 17 slices its way through the last remants
of the Twain Forest. This is the western most reaches of the Ozarks.
The towns I passed through on 17 were busy
little places. Store windows were decorated in full fall and Halloween
trim. Many houses I saw along the way boasted of stacked hay bales and
pumpkins in the front yard.
I passed through a town that had a 8 ball for
a water tower, but I can't remember the name. Not even the picture jars my
memory.

The 8 ball can be seen just above the
trees. Anyone know where this is?
The temp was warmer and the early morning
chill was almost gone.
In Laquey, I took SR 7 north and a few minutes
later pulled into Waynesville for my first break of the day.
I found a BIG gas mart thing and went in for
chips, Coke and beef jerky. I went back out front and sat on rocking chair
that faced me in the warm sunlight. The heat of the rays felt good on my
face. The butt break, here, knocked off the last few chill bumps from a
cool morning. A temp gauge hanging on a brown door face announced the temp
at 48 degrees.
Traffic picked up considerably when I left
Waynesville, as SR 7 took me over a series of waterways. Apparently, this
a popular area in the state, and I saw many SUVS pulling boats. RV parks
and campgrounds dotted the land. It was not a good ride through this area,
and it made me question myself on why I picked this route. But that's the
way it goes, some lines on a map are good, and some are not so good. Hard
to know which its going to be from your study.
Fishing is a big time thing in this state.
Many passed RVs later, I reached Camdenton,
and went to SR 5 north.
Along here I decide to skip lunch. The
beef jerky I ate in Waynesvill will hold me out a few hours more. I have
to keep the stand up if I have any hope of reaching Iowa before sundown.
There is not a cloud in the sky, and that will mean a quick cool off once the
sun goes down.
My butt is getting stiff so I stop at a
Mcdonalds in Versailles. It is located just across the street from the Jr.
High school. I munched on a regular order of French Fries. So much
for keeping the stand up. It was a short break.
The flags outside the school were snapping
briskly in the stiff wind.
As I rode north on 5 the landscape slowly
began to transform from timeberland to farmland. I passed several sheep
farms also.
It is late afternoon as I cruise north.
Riding through the small mid west towns that call SR 5 home, I noticed
football teams practicing in the late afternoon wind, preparing for Friday
nights game. These towns are true Americana. The hamlets were
surrounded by vast miles of farmland. They sat like an oasis in the
endless acres of corn and other crops.
School was out, as I rode through
Glasgow. Jr high students and younger could be seen walking home. No
one feared for their safety, no one worried about a sniper, and everyone knew
his neighbor. The tiny village was home to but a few hundred, and far
removed from bustling cities and out of control suburbs. Places such as
Glasgow signify all that is good about America. These are the kids of
farmers who work long hours in the fields, the kids of shop keepers, hair
dressers, and delivery men. I saw none with with cell phones or expensive
cars, instead they drove old trucks, or rode the bus without complaint.
I stopped in a gas mart just to watch life in
this place. Several high school kids packed in an old Ford pulled
in. I asked one of the boys-
"y'all from around here?"
"yes, sir"
"how long ya lived here?"
"all my life"
People make fun of the hicks from the Mid
West, but I think they have something special.
The sniper in Washington might as well been a
million miles away.
I'm sure there are dysfunctional folks around
here, but they sure seem hard to find.
Bolstered by what I found in Glasgow, I got
back on the road.
A few miles later I found a large brick house
with a homemade basketball court in the in front. It was complete with a
concrete pad, painted lane, key, and a 3 point shot arch. It even had
lights. I guess if I can have a backyard batting cage, these folks can
have a basketball court. I wondered about the young man who lived here,
and I pictured him practicing his skills on a cold winters afternoon. It
was here he practiced when others were out having fun. It reminded me of
what I use to tell Chris, " If you fail to practice, someone else is, and
if you ever meet him in competition he will win. There is no shame in
getting beat, just don't get beat cause the other guy out worked you."
That home made basketball court made me think
of the upcoming baseball season. It will be my sons last, we both need to
find a comfortable way to approach it.
Sunlight was fading as I rode north. The
surrounding farmland began to creep into the shadows. I'm not going to
make Iowa today. I pulled into a rural school's parking lot and got out my
atlas. I parked under a tree, and braced the atlas over my bags. It
was beginning to get cool. I could hear the whistles and shouts of the
football coaches from the nearby field, as they prepared the team.
I found my location, and then looked north for
the first campground. I found Pershing State Park on US 36, about 30 miles
east of Chillicothe. It looked to be a hundred miles or so away. I
should get there before dark.
It was a quiet ride the last 100 miles, and my
thoughts turned to the reasons why I am on this tour. I motored by the
ever increasing cornfields in the growing cold. I tucked the collar of the
Roadcrafter to ward off drafts. The highway was empty before me, and I sat back
to enjoy the ride.
I saw several farmhouses with smoke rising
from the chimneys, the wind off the plains dissolving the white smoke in a few
feet.
I passed, and met, several John Deere tractors
returning home from the fields, their days work done.
In Keytesville I made a wrong turn and
corrected myself in a funeral home parking lot.
SR 5 depoisted me on US 36, where I turned
west.
I missed the entrance to the park and had to
double back east. I rode back into Laclede, but still could not find the
brown sign that usually denotes a state park is nearby.
I took a side road that led me deeper into the
tiny town. I stopped at a closed down car garage and got out my map to
help me find the park. A mobile home was nearby and was decorated with
ghost and goblins. It reminded me of the scaregrow village I saw on Cape
Breton. It looked errie in the fading daylight.

Shades of Cape Breton. Ghosts and Goblins in
Laclede.
I took this time to call my wife and reported
I was at my final destination for the day.
The map told me if I went back south across
36, it would take me to the park. That's what I did, and soon I was on a
narrow but paved local road in dusky light. I was feeling cold, as I
slowly rode past empty fields and woods.
I came to a crossroads that had not one
sign. No route numbers, or any mention of a state park nearby. I
took a guess and went left. I got lucky, and found the park about 2 miles
later.
Pershing State Park is not a big park, but
like Wappapelo it was clean and orderly. It was almost dark when I began
pitching my tent in the trees.
There were a number of tents and RVs in the
park. Guessing more then a few hunters, were looking to get out in the
woods early the next day.
The host came by on a 4 wheeler and I gave him
11 bucks. Three extra for a load of firewood. He said it was going
down in the mid 20s.
I started a good fire with the USA Today I
bought earlier, and then warmed up the can of Brunswick stew I brought from
home. My Coleman stove is still working like a champ.
My phone rang, it was just my son checking in
with me.
I sat on a log, and ate supper in front of the
fire old west style.
I went over to the bathouse and took a HOT
shower. When I finished I put my sweat clothes on, and walked back to my
camp site and plopped down in front of the fire, and worked on my journal.
When I finished with that I called Rob Hart.
We had a lenghty conversation and in it we
discussed my retirement options. He seems to think I'm not ready for an
early retirement. When he asked me what I would do I said-
"well, I could ride more"
"how could ya ride any more then watcha
do now??"
After a brief silence I said , "well, ya
gotta point"
He thinks I should start a tour company, but
who would want to ride with ME??
I finished the day with 442 miles, about 150
miles short of where I wanted to be. Tomorrow is another day though.
I was out of wood and my fire was dying, so I
retreated to my warm sleeping bag. Once again I failed to get a signal on
my TV, so I decided to call it a night and TRY to get a early start in the
morning.
Footnote: Sept. 19, 2003- A reader
emailed me with the name of the town with the 8 ball water tower. It is
Tipton, Missouri.